Best Things to Do in Naples

The birthplace of pizza, trying a slice here is a must for any visitor. It’s often said to be the world’s best, with a soft chewy crust that has slightly burnt edges. It’s not about fancy toppings, with a classic Neapolitan simply topped with tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. Said to have been invented by a local cook in the 18th century to honor queen Margherita di Savoia, the toppings were selected to reflect the colors of Italy’s flag: red, white, and green. There are pizzerias in every neighborhood worthy of accolades with a total of over 800 in the city, but just 100 boasts certification by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the regulatory agency ensuring the art of pizza-making and the ingredients are in accordance with Neapolitan tradition. To find the best, look for a sign that says Vera Pizza Napoletana, a long line of locals waiting outside, and a wood-fired oven.

The National Archaeological Museum is one of the best of its kind in the entire world. Anyone who has an interest in Greco-Roman artifacts will enjoy exploring here. Built in the late 1700s by King Charles VII to house the collection of treasures and antiquities he inherited from his mother, it includes Italy’s second-largest collection of Egyptian relics, mosaics, and frescos from Pompeii. That includes much of the loot uncovered during both the Pompeii and Herculaneum digs. One of the highlights is the erotic art from Pompeii that’s hidden away in the “red-light” section called the Gabinetto Segretto. It includes everything from sexually explicit frescos and mosaics, to phallic charms, and more. Others include the remarkable mosaics on the mezzanine such as The Battle of Alexander against Darius and the Farnese collection on the ground floor which features Farnese Bull and Farnese Hercules, a huge sculpture portraying the mythical death of the Queen of Thebes.

Castel dell’Ovo literally translates to the “Egg Castle.” This imposing castle rises out of the sea on a small island linked to the mainland by a bridge. It’s the city’s oldest and most impressive castle, dating to the 12th century with Norman origins, set in the same area that was occupied by a Roman villa in the 5th century. Legend has it that its name refers to the egg that Virgilius would have hidden inside a cage in the castle’s basement. The halls are now used for conferences and exhibitions and are available for public visits via guided tours. Just strolling around the stone walls provides a great sense of the history it’s seen. Beneath the towers and walls is an ancient harbor, Borgo Marinari, that’s home to many bars and restaurants for enjoying a delicious seafood meal with a breathtaking view over the Gulf of Naples with Mount Vesuvius in the backdrop.

Castel Sant’Elmo (Saint Elmo’s Castle) is a stunning medieval fortress that’s perched on a hill overlooking Naples. It’s had many incarnations – originally it was a church, but 400 years later in 1349 it was transformed into a castle and in 1538 it was fortified. Up until the 1970s, it was used as a military prison. Today, visitors not only enjoy a peaceful place for reflection but a spectacular view over the city, nearby islands, the Sorrento peninsula, and Mount Vesuvius. It also hosts a museum, Museo del Novecento, which documents the major influences on Naples’ art scene with a focus on 20th-century Neapolitan art. Step inside to discover sculptures, paintings, and installations, including La schiena, a sensual work by Eugenio Viti, Monumento, a magnetic photograph by Giuseppe Desiato, and an untitled sculpture by Salvatore Cotugno of a rapped muted figure that strangely recalls Giuseppe Sanmartino’s Veiled Christ.

Museo di Capodimonte is one of the most underrated museums in Naples. As it’s located outside of the city center, most tourists overlook it but it’s been called the city’s most important art museum, showcasing a vast collection of classical art. Some of the highlights include the Farnese Collection on the museum’s second floor which includes cameos, paintings, and various antiquities that King Charles of Bourbon inherited. The haunting portrait of a young woman who may have been the artist’s mistress, Antea by Parmiganino is a gem, with a gaze that’s been compared to Ferrante’s Lila. Works by legends from Andy Warhol to Raphael can be found on the third and fourth floors, with the standouts the famous Judith and Holofernes by Artemisia Gentileschi and Caravaggio’s Flagellation of Christ. Royal apartments can be seen throughout, but the most impressive are on the second floor and include sparkling crystal chandeliers, mirrors, and portraits of Bourbon monarchs.

Naples is renowned for its nativity scenes, or presepi in Italian. Along its famous pedestrianized street, via San Gregorio Armeno, or Christmas Alley, you can watch local artisans as they create them. It’s been a tradition here for centuries, with all of the figurines handcrafted. Every year there are new characters added, including film stars, local celebrities, and politicians. There are hundreds of shops along this street selling handmade presepi, so if you’ve ever wanted one, you’ll want to do it while you’re here. Although they’re open throughout the year, the best time to visit is in September and October before the busy holiday season. This is when the artisans start to prepare their shops for Christmas allowing visitors to observe the skilled craftsmen at work. There are options for every budget, ranging from around $50 to over $4,000. The shops also sell accessories and figurines if you want to make your own presepi.

For a truly magical evening filled with high drama, catch a performance at Teatro San Carlo. While the original theater, built in 1737, burned down in 1816, the 19th-century reconstruction near Plebiscito Square is magnificent with its classic gilded interior. When it was revealed, French writer Stendhal remarked, “The first impression is that you have been transported to the palace of an oriental emperor. Your eyes are dazzled, our soul enraptured. One of the top opera houses in Italy, It not only sets a memorable stage for world-class opera, but classical music, and ballet. If you can’t attend a performance, consider taking a guided tour of the venue. The 45-minute tours usually include the elegant main hall, the royal box, and the foyers. Tickets can be purchased right at the theater up to 15 minutes before tours begin. Or visit the museum, MeMus, which is focused on theater and the opera house’s illustrious past.